Off-Road Trips

Jebel Shams

Sat, 2 Feb 2013 14:45:42 +0400

As ever, a public holiday on a Thursday or Sunday means one thing... Oman. This time, the realisation that we had never scaled Oman’s highest peak meant there was only one option... Jebel Shams.

The gang set off from our various offices through the emirates on Wednesday evening. The plan was to get there while meeting up at “some point” along the way. We all eventually caught up at a “local” eating place and lemon seller half way between the border and Ibri. At that quick pit stop little did we know that we were about to embark on a Top Gear style challenge.

Jack and I set off from the eatery first with James and Rachel in the car behind. At Ibri we pulled into a petrol station only see James and Rachel passing a minute later. We nipped back into the car and back on the road we increased our to speed catch them up. Going 140kph on a single carriageway road under road works seemed a bit extreme but we had to catch up and it had the added bonus of keeping me awake. Racing along we became increasingly suspicious as to the whereabouts of James and Rachel, “surely we should have caught up with them by know” we thought. That’s is when we received the phone call...

It turned out that James and Rachel had also stopped at a petrol station just after ours and then had been racing behind us trying to keep up! And there was more, google maps had found a shorter route and James and Rachel had just turned off towards Wadi Damm a bit back. Jack and I quickly looked at the map and tried to appraise their new route the only thing was that their new route was not clear. And so that was the set up for the race; we had further to go but we on faster roads, James and Rachel had a shorter route but of unknown quality. Race on!

With little regard for my heroic but well used short wheel based Pajero, we pressed on hard keeping our recent pace up. There could only be one winner and that was going to us. Although there was constant nagging doubt due to the much shorter route of James and Rachel. Jack and I made good time but in Bahla disaster struck. We became lodged in a traffic jam behind a slow cement lorry. The line was far too long to get around so we just had to sit it out. 5 slow kilometers later we reached our turning towards Jebel Shams. It was time to make up lost time. This accelerated strategy lasted for all of 3 minutes due a series of perfectly camouflaged speed bumps and our unintended collusions with them. As we started to wind our way you the mountain, I was staring paranoidly into the gloom for the next aggressive grey speed bump. Halfway up we received another phone call, James and Rachel reported they had just got back onto tarmac. This could either mean one of two things either they were ahead of us as we knew that the road ahead goes to dirt and then back onto tarmac near the top or they were somewhere on their mystery road behind us. There was only on thing for it; assume they were ahead and speed up round the sharp bends of the mountain road. Finally we emerged at the turnoff to our proposed campsite and there was no James or Rachel. Jack and I had proved that with a bit of motivation the further faster way was the quickest!

10 mins later, and after a demonstration of Jack’s new found skill of diagnosing any engine or car noise, James and Rachel appeared. We bumbled down the planned track to find that the extended proposed google earth track was no longer so camp had to be pitched closer to the start of the Jebel Shams walk then desired.

We had a very slow next morning (Thursday) and thank you Mohammed PBUH for a having a birthday. After a bacon breakfast we arrived at the start of the abandoned village hike with a defensive mind set as we and heard the locals vigorously try and sell you unremarkable rocks. Firm walking and heads down turned out to be the perfect tactic to nullify the locals and we were on the hike proper. On the side of the grand canyon, we felt our true place in the universe. It wasn’t long until we were close to the abandoned village. The village was a small affair. We continued straight through and up to the lake for lunch. Jack was the first to dive in (see above). He reported that it was a little cold but refreshing. James and I followed... it was definitely refreshing! The only other things to report are that there is a Japanese water garden behind the lake, tites come down, and the way back is all up hill even through the way out does not seem down hill. That evening we arrived back to camp to find we had visitors in the form of three more tents and two cars; no impressed. Anyway I was alotted to prepare food that evening and the cauldron whipped out and boeuf bourguignon was prepared and eaten. The rest of the evening is a bit hazy due to Rachel’s gin measures...

Friday morning was the big morning of the Jebel Shams hike. I stood up and then immediately fell over due Rachel’s gin measures. That girl can certain pour a measure! We commenced at 7.15am following a rather large pack of American scouts; not something one wants to encounter first thing in the morning. We quickly passed the scout group and proceeded up to the edge of the grand canyon.

Flag. Flag. Flag. No flag. Where is the next flag? Wonder round for a bit. Oh there is the next flag. Flag. Flag. Flag. And so it continues. We left the edge of canyon. Flag. Flag. Up the side of a Wadi. Flag. Flag. And reached the top at the col just underneath the military installation. Oh we thought we must be nearish the top... What followed was quite a stagger to reach the “Southern Summit”. The altitude had taken the spring out of our steps and after 4km along the ridge going in and out wadis we finally made it to the top with magnificent views!

At lunch we reflected on the hike and confirmed that the hike across the ridge from the col to the southern summit was most unwelcome. Next we noticed the time 2pm! We had to crack on. Back a long the ridge in and out of the wadis. The col was a happy site. As we lost altitude the spring gradually return to our tired steps. Flag. Flag. Flag. Bird of prey. Flag. Flag. The light began to fade providing some awesome photo ops (to the left you can see the bushes of grass lit up and then Jack silhouetted against the mountains). The last 2km was walked in complete darkness the day’s exertions had definitely taken their toll. Close to camp Jack and James manage to find all the fire wood we would ever need with several large dead logs dry by the summer. James sorted dinner and e kept Rachel away from the gin bottle...

The next day we went back the interesting James and Rachel route. We stopped at the world heritage site of the beehive tombs of Al-Ayn, had a walk around, did some rebuilding and Rachel showed off her bottom.

Jebel Shams hike is damm good. Crack on...

RAK short steep highland

Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:13:44 +0400

I had not scared the wife (ILPH) for a while. And so it was off to Ras Al Khamaih. Pylon tracks are always interesting because they a built for the lowest, which generally means steep, and then they are not maintained. This pylon track was bloody steep!

Early start, find your way through Ras Al Khamaih, onto off-road and then hit a sign saying “WARNING - Vehicle Entry Strictly Restricted”. The oxford English dictionary defines restricted as follows: adjective - limited in extent, number, scope, or action (and for those English buffs out there its Orign - Middle English: from Old French restreign-, stem of restreindre, from Latin restringere, from re- 'back' + stringere 'to tie, pull tight'). Restrain or restrict does not mean prohibit. We continued.

The first stretch was ok, second stretch a little steeper, in the third stretch there was a distinct tyre smell, and the fourth stretch was wet your pants time. This was steeper then anything we had done before. The ILPH wanted to go back but I did fancy turning around on this road. We ploughed on. After some more tyre destruction we emerged onto high plateau.

We parked up and went for a wander up to the ridge. Along the ridge we could se wadi Shahah to our right and the sea to our left. As always there was a bit of coaxing of the ILPH, including a perilous photo shoot. Halfway up the ILPH could be coaxed no more and we bounced back to the car.

Now we had to take on the sleep crazy road again but in reverse. And as I always say it is more dangerous going down... The car was put into low range and 1st gear. We crept all the way down at a comical speed, thankfully I don’t think anyone there witness our timidity. A puff of the cheeks at bottom to release the tension and we were off to Dhaya fort.

Dhaya fort is a re-built fort on the top small hillock in Ras Al Khamiah. As we arrived it was also a rather uncomfortable photo shoot location involving 6 Russian beauties, clothed but in various positions, and two quite happy Indian photographers. Dodging the Russians we went straight to the back fort, a quick look about, then back past the Russians and that was that. On our way down we did notice an old mud fort that was very eroded. So we poop along to take a look. Who knows how old it was or what it was it’s purpose. The old fort was nice because it did look like new a rarity in the Emirates!

Well we activity discourage you from attempting the steep pylon track but I suppose if you really wanted to take it on then we could not stop you...

Wadi Naqab

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 23:12:42 +0400

Wadi Naqab is an odd one. There is no reference of it anywhere (apart from the climbing Red Wall). However from google earth it looks pretty inviting, deep and steep sided. You could possibly can walk into Oman if illegal border crossing is your thing or it could be the start of the man’s hike to Jebel Yabir. What is shown on google earth adds up to some excellent potential, oh and there is what looks like a rather pleasant road up the side of the valley...

Actually when driving into the wadi first impressions were that it has not missed it’s fair share of quarrying. Where would the coast line of the UAE be without that? Not so disfigured? Anyway turning right past the sizeable quarry there it was to our right; the start of the track. There was a barrier but it was most of the way up thereby saying go a head!

We went a head. It was a little steeper than we expected but in lower range gears nothing too difficult until... a mini 20m ascent on a bend faced us. The first go was naive. We drove up to it put on the gas a bit too late in the day and were immediately wheel spinning. Brake on. Slowly edge/slide back down; particular attention was given to the large drop behind us in the direction we were sliding. Thankfully the front wheels were effective enough to allow us to turn back round the bend. The second go was doomed to failure from the start by our hearts vigorously instructing our heads not to reverse too far back towards the aforementioned large drop. So for a second time wheels were spinning. At this point we were ready to cry and go home to our mummies however after some rather incoherent low key discussions and further back tracking we decided to go for it. And so the third go; a good run up, foot down, keep the speed round the bend, begin up the slope, and with the under side of the car giving a kiss to the ground we were up!!!

The rest of the drive was spectacular. The road had been gently bulldozed right on top of the ridge and so you had great views left and right. After many more zigs and zags we arrived at the “car park”. Now, we thought that this was going to be a remote location. (I know, I know now thinking about it there is a road up there but anyway that is what we thought at the time.) And we so set off on our remote wildness walk. “Oh there’s a house. Must be a one off, that chap must sure like his own company” we said and carried on. 5 minutes later the path opened out and there were one or two small hamlets and more separate houses. We passed two that were being built! Could it be that because of the credit crunch that more building was happening on this hillside than in the whole of Dubai? Maybe?

We soldiered on following the path. The path ran out at the highest new homestead under construction and then is was just a scramble up to the top. From the top Jebel Yibir (next time maybe), Jebel Qihwi, RAK proper and a few more intriguing mountains were all visible. On the way down there were a few drops of rain and our thoughts immediately focused on the drive down. It is funny, although more care and attention was taken on the drive down, it seemed a lot more tame than the way up. Perhaps once the unexpected is expected something is lost?

Shawqah's Pools, J. Darah & T Beast!

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 20:27:59 +0400

‘twas the second outing for “the beast” into the great outdoors. Some more pools, yes more pools, and some rough tracks awaited the little big beast. First to Shawqah.

We arrived: the beast (our little Mitsubishi Pajero IO), the irritable little pack horse (ILPH aka the wife) and I at the edge of the tarmac. Into four wheel drive and we were off. After 10 mins we made the briefest of stops and experienced a UAE first for us a local beggar. We pressed a little flesh and with a little bewilderment we went our way. Into the wadi behind Shawqah dam and a small crunch and scrape was audible. “Oh, I’ll go slower next time.” I said to the ILPH. After another dordling 3km of taking it slowly we could no further. Out of the beast and a glance at the under side. No damage but there was and is a low hanging bar. I assume it was for protection but it was so low hanging that what was going to protect the low hanging bar!

We proceeded on foot up the wadi and there were pools. The first pool was the deepest and good for a wallow and the odd bomb. As we progressed the pools became shallower but became more and more life filled. Dragon flies, tiny fish, strange leopard print not quite tadpols not quite frogs, and a variety of other insects. The main thing that came out of the wadi experience was that the ILPH needs to improve her rugby pass... (private joke)

After dordling back to Shawqah we nipped into a neighbouring valley. All the way the ILPH was on navigation duty. We winded our way up the wadi and then gates; a farmstead. We were considering our options when the farmer opened the gates and beckoned us thorough and out the other side. Strange I can only assume he had built his farm over the track. After this the track gets a wee bit rougher and that bar under the car was brushed a few more times. Eventually the track defeated us just below Jabal Darah. A quick recci and we found a perfectly formed westerly facing valley to camp in, perfect apart from the short walk with all the camping gear.

The camp was enjoyed; then to bed. We had that sinking feeling during the night... yep the airbed had a leak! Each time the ILPH and I tossed and turned, about once every 15mins, for the rest of the night we wondered if we should get up. We didn’t and with the risk of an over statement we carried on through the night with a resolve that Shakleton would have been proud of!

We had breakfast, packed the car then looked up at the moderately sized Jebel Darah looming over us. I do not know what daunted me more the climb or getting the ILPH to the top.... actually I do. I had to engineer a devious way of coaxing the ILPH to the top. We set off and walked directly into a heard of sheep herding them back up the mountain. 10 seconds later an unimpressed farmer firmly gestured to us to walk round in the adjacent valley. In the next valley we rounded a corner and then we met another group of about 20 sheep and again we began herding them up mountain eventually passing them. Two-thirds of the way up my miss givings about the ILPH were miss placed not a negative pep out of her just causal banter. However, shortly after ILPH began to express doubt of reaching the top. The next 40mins involved coaxing the ILPH in stages repeating the blatant lie that “The top is just there come you can do it.” followed by the ILPH trudging the next short stage up to the next false peak. Eventually we made it to the top! On the top the lack of sleep from the deflating bed kicked in and we snoozed for a blissful 1 hour in the mid day sun...

The Back Way to Wadi Shis

Fri, 28 Oct 2011 21:34:20 +0400

The back way to Wadi Shis (or Chees) is an ascent followed by a rather nice meander down a wadi for bend after bend. You’ll know when you are getting close to it as the striking white quartz schist mountains loom larger and larger and also when a little pepper pot of a fort pops up on the horizon.

As soon as reached what seemed like a five way crossroads we continued straight across the junction and nipped round the corner up between the two white gems of mountains. Past a rather out of place village (you’ll know what I am saying when you get there), finally stopping at some surprisingly nice pools. We were not expecting much but there were a small series of pools which we clambered up like a reverse mini snake canyon.

After refreshing ourselves, it was getting on a bit so it was to the Hajar mountain to see if we could take a look at the sea. A short climb and the sea was glimpsed in its dark majestic beauty. Back down the mountain and a drive back up the wadi, it was to home with a warm sense of satisfaction that we have been to another special place in this corner of Arabia.

Wadi Maydaq

Fri, 14 Oct 2011 22:17:18 +0400

It was with pools in mind that we set off. The exert from our 1970s map above was indeed intriguing with that many pools shown. Prompted by the map questions followed. What would it be like now as a lot of development has happened since then. Water is very precious and with the population growth would all the water have been sucked up?
We set off. Once we reached the “Friday” market we knew we were close. A quick stop, a coconut and two inflatable Dora the explorer dolls later and then we kicked onto the wadi.
As we drove up the wadi Friday jovial families were BBQing left right and centre. At the head of the wadi we took a quick walk along a pleasant bare rock babbling brook. There was a great potential camping spot after an initially pretty rough entry track.
We proceed to the largest walk of the day. The car track passed the tower as shown on the old map and finished abruptly at a private residence. We parked up outside, shimmied round the outside of a compound and dropped into the wadi below. The wadi was full of large shallow pools and it slowly became clear we were no longer in the land where the human rules. We only noticed small tad poles at first, but gradually as we made our way up the wadi they sprouted legs, then they were mini frogs with still half tales and finally a full adult frog. We scrambled up the nearest hillside immediately! We made it to the ridge, traversed and dropped down at the first col back down into the wadi. We quickly came across more frogs of various hues. As the afternoon rolled out before us there was a very delicate soundtrack of amorous frogs! We strolled down the wadi and next to every pool we heard frogs, amorous frogs cooling off by plop, plop, plop plop.
After we narrowly escaped the amorous frogs we tripped to our third location of the day. As we approached the top of the first large col the road was becoming steeper and steeper. Just as we reached the apex it became rutted where other people have struggled and then we struggled. After a fair amount of wheel spin it was time to take our medicine. The track was narrow and steep and so when reversing down the track our car was more under the influence of gravity then the steering wheel! We reached the bottom. I was very keen on having another crack with a bit of extra juice but the misses was less keen. Discussions continued then we both noticed what looked like a parallel track. This finished all discussions and we tried again. This second track was less steep but more uneven. We reached the top to a magnificently glowing vista. The sun was getting low and it made the landscape look warm. After going in and out of the wadi we reached the end of the track. As the sun was going down we quickly dashed up the wadi and stopped at the first pools and had to return.
Is was a lovely day, just beware of the amorous frogs!

Fossil Rock

Sat, 8 Oct 2011 21:02:02 +0400

It was with some trepidation that we approached Fossil Rock. Would “The Beast”’s small wheels just cut down into the sand beaching it with all too much ease? Could the two litre engine power its way over the dunes?

It start well albeit a little bit over manic, with the constant thought of those little narrow tyres. The small stuff was no sweat. As we rose the sand became softer but the beast beasted it. At the col the first limitation of the beast came to the fore. Just going down the other side we bottomed out, helpfully conveyed to us by the sound of metal grinding on rock. Lucky a survey reported no damage.

Next challenge was a steep dune beside a rocky out crop on soft sand. Once, twice, three times, four times we tried to get the beast to the top with the faint aroma of clutch in the air (the beast is a manual). Almost immediately after our failed attempts we got a little stuck and so with a bit of heavy clutch work, back and forth, we were out however it was a pyrrhic victory. The clutch was is a bad way and we limped back to the road.

The moral of the story: The beast can tame the dunes but maybe it shouldn’t...

(Also perhaps the driver should get more experience driving a manual on sand ...)

Hatta Pools 2 & Pointy Mountain

Fri, 23 Sep 2011 23:04:06 +0400

It was an absent Friday. Popping round Hatta Pools more remote places. First off-roading down onto the plain, next to the main gorge to find a way through. Up and down and it was nice enough to finally park up in front of some very large blocks, again! The authorities have some cheek.

A stroll down the wadi with running water, streams appearing and disappearing frequently and with the odd shallow pool to wallow in made you briefly remember a bit of nature from back home.

Finally, it was onwards to climb the pointy mountain above. It turned out to be small but with a surprise rock climb at the top!

Wadi Zikit

Sat, 10 Sep 2011 20:59:46 +0400

It was Fujairah for the weekend. After another glance at google earth and a few ill gotten maps, Jebel Al Alam looked like a good job.

We set off through a maze of mining tracks. Up and down, against some thorny trees and bushes (my paint work will never be the same again), some hairy moments and then a line of rocks... The road had been completely washed away. Damm!

With not enough time to scale Jebel Al Alam before England vs Argentina kicked off, it was left for another day.

Liwa 2011 - Abu Dhabi

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 21:18:04 +0400

Liwa take two...

This time we had three cars and had more of a knack for tackling those dunes. We went almost due south and just kept on going. Dune after dune, we threaded the cars through the myriad of innovative dune configurations thrown at us. These configurations increased in complexity and became softer the higher in the dune we reached.

After a hard day’s off-roading we relaxed at camp feeling like we were as far away from civilisation as possible.

The following day was just as fun and challenging. And what followed was a warm realisation that this time we had properly passed the Liwa test.