Cheetahs, giraffes, and little elephant creatures roam the UAE… At least they roam a sizeable island off the coast of Abu Dhabi. Yes this is Sir Bani Yas Island, an Island that the late great Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al-Nahyan made his own by importing animals to make a unique modern day Jurassic Park (or Quaternary Park for the geologist out there).

‘twas the wife’s (aka the Irritable Little Pack Horse or ILPH, so named after her manner when climbing mountains) birthday, and what better than to enjoy one of the wonders of the UAE in 5 star style with a cheeky offer: three nights for two including breakfast (watch the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves). We could have chosen to arrive by aeroplane or chauffer driven limousine but for us it was a surprisingly rapid trip from Dubai. We kept at 120kph, did not stop and arrived at the hotel welcome lodge on the main land in three and half hours. We reclined until the ferry was ready and then set off and arrived at the hotel reception centre on the island. Finally after a very sedate coach trip, the max speed is 50kph and there was a lot of giving way and dodging animals, we arrived at the desert island hotel.

The hotel is perfectly formed with an exclusive 64 rooms and a confident safari feel. At check-in you are presented with “the pack” of all the activities of the island. Mountain biking anyone? Snorkelling? Kayaking? Visit the site of the earliest Christian church in Arabia? Diving? Horse trailing? Falconry? And the one everyone comes for… the island safari. We booked up the next three days with the island safari, church tour and in between the snorkel gear in our bag would keep us amused. Then we bounced up to our ocean view room and… relaxed. 

The next morning snorkelling was front of mind but first was breakfast and as it turned out some bird watching as well. Dining outside we were treated to a dazzling display of acrobatic tenacity by small birds endeavouring to pick up the crumbs from our table. Back to snorkelling, we kitted up and headed for the sea. Now, going into the sea sounds like a simple endeavour but not so as at the hotel there are large barrier sandbags just inside the sea to promote coral reef growth. After a bit of ducking and weaving, we entered the water at the shallows just to the west. At the first step we disturbed a young ray and he wasn’t hanging about. The ray turned out to the first of the amazing sea creatures we saw over the weekend. We snorkelled onwards into 40cm of water for 200m to the reef; seeing not much but the odd sand fish diving back into its hole. As we approached the reef the wife (aka the ILPH) became very animated. “Oooouueemmah” the ILPH said “uuuuurrrrrtllllle”. “Ummmahhhhh” I said. “eerrrrrtttlee” again from the ILPH. By the time we had popped up, and therefore could speak normally, the t-u-r-t-l-e had gone. So head back down and carry on, then the next thing I knew the ILPH was going crazy again with the same in-audible water noises… Apparently this time the ILPH had spotted a black tip reef shark. Do we believe her? I do as each time I could just about see a discontinuity in the sea through my cheap fogged up mask; time for a new mask I think. Anyway it was another 20 minutes of splashing around and it was back to shore to relax at the hotel for the rest of the day with the ILPH content she had spied a ray, turtle and shark.

The following morning the time came for main event of the weekend; the safari. We set off in a converted land cruiser on the first excursion of the day. The guide immediately started caveating the trip “You know, we are not guaranteed to see any thing…”. Hang on we all thought! Our guide continued in a faux happy tone “The thing is that for the first excursion no one knows where the animals are. During the day after each excursion we get better and better information on locations of the animals.” At this point the ILPH and I recalled the moment we booked and asked when was the best time to go out and promptly received the reply “first thing in morning”. Well someone wasn’t telling the truth. Were we going to see nothing? Well that was the low point and luckily it was all up hill from there.

As we approached the entry to the really wild central park of the island all of a sudden Jurassic park was back in vogue with the semi-monolithic remote controlled gates in front of us, although disappointingly there were no heavy armed guards ready to take down any wild beast that attempts a break for freedom. Once inside, we were on the animals’ turf; where the law of the jungle reigns supreme. If any of us were eaten by the Cheetahs or hyenas then it would be our own fault. As we trundled through the park there were a few Sand Gazelles and Arabian Oryx and then swiftly a rather inquisitive ostrich poked its head in the vehicle. She was rather partial to a drink of water which duly we gave her taking care to not get snapped by her beak. We continued on and popped over the brow of a hill and into the feeding area. Immediately we were transported to the plains of the Serengeti in dry season with herds of Sand Gazelle, Beisa Oryx , Blackbuck, Gemsbok and Scimitar-Horned Oryx. Slowly picking our way through in a large loop, we saw animals of all ages; especially memorable were the baby sand gazelles who were still a little wobbly of their feet.

As we continued further into the interior our guide began to talk about the rules of the island. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan had decreed that: animals must always have the right of way, no animal was allowed to be killed and before the hotel access to the island was by invitation only. Next was the Eland enclosure. Elands are the largest antelope species on the planet. Unfortunately they are terribly destructive and as they cannot be culled they are fenced off to keep their destruction localised. Sheikh Zayed’s majlis is at the centre and highest point of the island. The majlis has entertained a large number of dignitaries but now regrettably it stands well kept but idle. From the majlis there is a welcoming sight best seen from above. As people approach by air, a forest in the shape of a coffee pot announces the forth coming Arab hospitality.

Down from the centre of the island and into the southern half our guide informed us that this was the best area to see the larger more elusive animals like the Cheetahs and Giraffes. Further into the bush we passed ostrich number two and then a Giraffe. Two Giraffes… 5 Giraffes! They were gliding along on their morning constitutional, two of whom were quite interested in us and lurched closer for a photo. After an extensive photo shoot, they continued on their way and so did we; we had Cheetahs to track. With a firm jab of the breaks our guide brought the vehicle to a stop and thrust her right arm out. What was it? A Cheetah? No, it was a 30cm high rodent looking animal nice but not as spectacular when compared to a Cheetah. “What’s the closest living relative to that animal?” our guide asked. The answers came quickly “Capybara?”, “Meerkat?”, “Arabian Hare?”. “No” our guide said slowly “think larger…”. Then someone jokingly said “Elephant!”. And yes the closest living relative to the 30cm high Hyrax is the 4.5m high Elephant.

The Sir Bani Yas Cheetah experience started with three Cheetahs, two males one female, released into Sir Bani Yas reserve from captivity. Sir Bani Yas Island is the perfect environment for the Cheetahs with its space, abundant sand gazelle population and little competition. This was born out when the female Safira became pregnant and gave birth to 4 seemingly healthy cubs, two males and two females. Initially the cubs thrived and the whole island was abuzz with the new arrivals. However mysteriously the two female cubs fell ill and died and so the two male cubs where left. As young male cubs grew older the original two adult males began to see the maturing male cubs as a threat and started attack them. One of the two maturing male cubs was killed and luckily the park was able to save the other male cub by placing him in a separate compound for his protection. And so this was the Cheetah situation when the ILPH and I were on the island, the original two males and one female (Safira) were roaming freely in the park, the one remaining young male Cheetah within his own enclosure.

This was where the guide left the story and we proceeded along the boarder fence between the enclosure of the young male cub and the main park. The older males are often seen here to try and finish off the young male Cheetah, so we kept our eyes peeled looking both left and right; for the hunters and the hunted. Eventually, we saw the young male Cheetah safely and provocatively next to the fence within his enclosure. He was promptly photographed from every angle by everyone in the vehicle. Our time was up within the park, so it was back through a 2nd set of Jurassic Park gates and time to reflect on the trip. We had seen all the different animals on Sir Bani Yas Island except the hyenas; well that is just another reason to go back.

The last day and a half entailed some serious relaxing interspersed by more snorkelling and a geeky archaeological church tour. That afternoon while snorkelling I managed to close my waterproof case for my camera with part of the strap trapped inside. This did not go well. Water did not flood in immediately, it seeped in slowly. Slow enough for us to be about 25 minutes into the snorkel, with the ILPH on form seeing sharks, mermaids and the lost city of Atlantis without me noticing, before I realised that there was water in the case! Luckily the case could be held in such a way that the water pooled away from the camera and so with the ILPH holding the camera out of the water, I towed us both back at double time. My Canon G12 was dead for the rest of the trip however thankfully the camera is now back to full fitness. 

The following afternoon it was the church tour. The church was constructed by a Nestorian community in 6th century AD. It is the most southerly of the Christian sites in the gulf and some imagination is required as the dormitory, kitchen, stores rooms, and church are pointed out. The community was short lived only lasting for two centuries before the coming of Islam. However it is amazing to think that this settled community was here at all surviving on what used to be the end of the earth.

Unfortunately the time came to leave and the coach, island reception centre, ferry, mainland reception centre, car drive and home sequence was repeated. Sir Bani Yas Island is a magical place and the ILPH and I can definitely recommend the safari and the snorkelling!